Hope Chest Wood Projects Plans to Build For Your Daughter to Treasure

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Hope chest wood projects plans make an ideal beginners woodworking project as within the assembly of these you will practice many woodworking beginner skills.

For a the hope chest wood projects plans you will need to practice the following woodworking skills

Hope Chest Wood Projects Plans Tasks Overview

  • Review the hope chest wood projects plans thoroughly for understanding
  • Calculate all the timber lengths required to ensure they are all at hand
  • Measure and mark-up for cutting; all the timber pieces from the hope chest wood projects plans specifications
  • Check measure your mark-ups before cutting all the timber pieces against the hope chest wood projects plans
  • Cut all the timber to the correct sizes
  • Sand and buff all timber to ensure they are smooth
  • Glue the cut timbers to form the sides and lid of the hope box
  • Fit wooden strengtheners to the hope box
  • Drill holes for fixtures and fittings
  • Fit hinges for the lid
  • Attach fittings for the handles
  • Finish the hope chest with an appropriate finisher of your choice

What Are Hope Chests

In anticipation of a married life, a maiden owns a “hope chest” where she could store her garments and linens to prepare her for a new life. You should not mistake a hope chest with a bride chest, though. A bride chest is that which is given by the groom to his bride on their wedding day. A hope chest, as its name suggests, is both a tradition and a symbol of hope among unmarried women of getting married.

Hope Chests Make Great Gifts and Heirlooms

Although traditions are evolving through time, the worth of hope chests still remains. And having this symbolic chest as a present to your daughter, granddaughter, friends, or even yourself will surely be a source of happiness both to the receiver and to you, as the giver. That doesn’t mean, however, that you have to buy one from a store. Given a free time and will, you can create a personalized hope chest where you can practice your creativity.

hope chest wood projects plans
In anticipation of a married life, a maiden owns a “hope chest” where she could store her garments and linens to prepare her for a new life

Easy Hope Chest Wood Projects Plans

Do not worry if you have never tried any woodworking projects before, you can always turn to the internet for help. After familiarizing yourself with the basics of woodworking, you can then browse for hope chest plans to guide you in working on the chest. With these plans which are available online, you do not have to start from scratch.

After choosing the best and easiest plan amidst all the hope chest plans swarming the internet; make necessary alterations in the design and details of the chest. Let your work be a reflection of your personality or of the one you want to give the hope chest to. Easy enough, right?
Now to further help you in your hope chest project, here are some tips on what you can do with your finished product.

  • Let the chest be the storage of love letters, photographs, and items that carry sentimental values.
  • Display the chest somewhere in your room.
  • Traditionally, hope chests are placed at the end of the bed to function as a storage box and a seat.
  • Hand it down to your daughter
  • Ask your daughter to do the same to your grandchild

This will make the hope chest an important treasure in your family handed down through several generations.

Hope Chests Easy Wood Projects

Almost every girl dreams to get married someday, but there will always be that thought of sadness in leaving her family. A stylish and personalized hope chest will ease that gloom from your daughter and will be a beautiful gift for her to treasure. Don’t worry with the help of some easy hope chest wood projects plans, some good quality wood and some quality varnish or  wood finisher this will be much easier than you think

Check out the whole range of woodworking plans detailed here including hope chest diy wood projects plans and get started building today.

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BedSide Table Woodworking Plans Tips to Get the Best Results

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How to Get the Best Results with BedSide Table Woodwork Plans

Depending on the type of bedside table you want to build, such as a pine bedside table or an oak bedside table, you’ll need clear bedside table woodworking plans to follow in order to obtain the best result. Building a bedside table is not difficult if you follow the right instructions but without a plan, it is very easy to build a nightstand table that is either too weak or so wobbly or uneven that you would be so embarrassed that you wouldn’t even consider using it.

In constructing the bedside table or nightstand woodworking projects the only things you need to have some tools for work, some lumber and a good table plan woodworking you like. A woodworking project shows your accomplishments as a carpenter. Patience with the right quality materials and developing your skills to help create a wood furniture that will stand the test of time.

bedside table woodworking plans
Bedside tables or nightstand woodworking plans are a good design to practice your table building skills before you progress onto larger table project builds. They are also ideal to choose as you can then match your exact bedroom design requirements

Why You Need Bedside Table Woodwork Plans

A good table woodworking plan will give you all the information you need to know, such as the type of tools needed to accomplish a certain task. Each job requires different types of tools, but if you do not have a particular tool, it is usually another tool you can use, but it may take longer to get the same result. The table woodworking plans should provide the woodworker with a list of materials needed for your table.

A woodworking plan is a guide or road map to achieve a certain result, you can substitute different types of wood and fittings and still get an excellent result providing your substitutions are materials of equivalent strength. The wood grain is also a factor that gives you different finishes. Several tables are made from hardwoods, there are many exotic woods that have widely varying patterns of grain. Your choice of wood can vary from that shown in your table plans because you want your table to have a look when it is finished.

Types of Wood for Bedside Table Nightstands

Hardwoods are generally more expensive to buy than softwoods and you need to take more care with them, for example always drill holes for the screws or you may not split the wood. Hardwoods are a stronger wood soalso suited for outside use like for garden tables but can also be used indoors.

The instructions in your cutting bedside table woodworking plans are very important. Making a mistake while cutting materials to use in your draft table may result in more costs for the new hardware if you cut the material too short. When cutting the timber always the longest pieces first, that way you’ll have less waste. Measure twice, cut once, mark the side of scrap to cut the right side of the line.

Correct Tools & Fixings Required for Bedside Table Woodworking Plans

A saw blade can take 1/8inch (3mm) in particular cut an electric saw. When working on the lengths of wood to buy your materials list in the table plans woodworking do not forget to allow for the width of the saw cut. For example you can only obtain 3 to 2 feet (600mm) length of a foot 8 (2400) Board, the final piece will be 3 / 8 inch (9 mm) shorter.

How you join your hardware to your bedside table is very important step and it is only with the proper fixing for your hardware that the best end results will be obtained. If you miss a step in fixing the securing parts of your table it will no doubt cause you problems later in the construction of your table or result in your table being less secure than expected, so getting good instruction on this is essential.

Bedside Table Detailed Steps

Read all instructions in the bedside table woodworking plans before starting construction of your table, how easy it is to do something that will cause you a problem later in construction.

Good quality bedside table woodworking plans will help you build your table that is structurally sound, long lasting and look great when you’re done, check out our recommendation for easy table and chair woodworking plans and hundreds more woodworking plans.

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Woodworking Clamps vs Cramps And Everything Clamping You Need to Know

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woodworking clamps vs crampsMany people ask when they are amassing their woodworking selection of tools “What is the difference between woodworking clamps vs cramps?”

I have done quite a bit of research on this and there are a lot of different answers to this dating back to the origins of the words woodworking clamps vs cramps in the 19th century. I still myself use the terms interchangeably but Wikipedia seems to have the best explanation I believe which states:

A clamp is a fastening device used to hold or secure objects tightly together to prevent movement or separation through the application of inward pressure. In the United Kingdom and Australia, the term cramp is often used instead when the tool is for temporary use for positioning components during construction and woodworking; thus a G cramp or a sash cramp but a wheel clamp or a surgical clamp

I quite like this explanation of clamps vs cramps so am going to stick with that for my own purposes.

This is a great reference to the various use of clamps and cramps in woodworking which I hope you enjoy.

Clamps vs Cramps

Many arts and crafts pieces, particularly cabinets, had a logic of assembly that employed the simple strategy of assembling all components in one direction, with all cramp pressure being applied in one direction, too. When you consider the very short open assembly time of hot melt animal glue this simple logic makes a lot of sense. I sometimes shudder at the prospect of such an experience and remember asking a senior cabinetmaker how he tackled the problem. His answer was: teamwork… get as many pairs of hands to help as you can and then make sure that everyone knows what to do and when, as with gluing up you do not get a second chance.

Design considerations

With today’s new and unusual designs, assembly and gluing up must be given ongoing consideration during the detailed design stages. It is possible to predict a lot of potential problems as early as at the drawing stage.

If you employ a radical construction, the value of a mock-up or a test joint gives you the opportunity to glue up and test the construction dynamically. It might even back up your product liability insurance if the construction is to be included in the making of a chair, for example. It will certainly enable you to work out the sequence of assembly, bearing in mind such important factors as directions of pressure and clamping blocks to distribute load efficiently. In short, the motto of gluing should be: plan and leave nothing to chance.

Cramp costs

While it is true that you can never have too many cramps, economics often dictate otherwise as cramps can be expensive. In reality, it

is often necessary to compromise, and applying some thought and discussing your requirements with established cramp makers can save you money.

Base your choice of cramps on the type of work you are planning to do, not forgetting that you can expand your collection as you go along. It is also worth shopping around to get the best deals. Look out for special deals at trade shows, where discounts are often offered to encourage people to attend.

Remember the maxim: ‘nothing ventured nothing gained’. Ask for a discount if you are buying more than just a couple of items. I once went to a tool supplier intending to buy four 24in (600mm) sash cramps and came away with a dozen after negotiating a substantial discount. There are cramps for all kinds of situations. It takes time to build up a comprehensive collection and buying some of the specialist cramps can be put off until later.

Sash cramps

Probably the most indispensable cramp is the sash cramp. These are available in sizes from 24in (600mm), increasing in 6in (150mm) increments to 6ft (1,830mm). The ultimate goal is to have a selection of all the sizes, but a realistic start would be to think about the scale of work that you envisage carrying out and buy accordingly.

Also, bear in mind that sash cramps are used in pairs in many situations and that some sizes are used more often than others. I would recommend investing in six 24in (600mm) and six 36in (900mm) to start with.

When used in cabinetmaking, it is not necessary for sash cramps to have heavy-duty bars or T-section bars as joints should not be so tight as to require the extra force. However, if you require increased capacity it is possible to bolt two cramps together to achieve this. Use two bolts and screw the two cramps together so that they behave as one.

New sash cramps need to be cleaned thoroughly as they are liberally covered in oil. Be sure that you clean the screws, too, or you can be certain that oil will get onto that beautiful sycamore surface! Alternatives to the sash cramp are available, particularly the well-engineered deep- jawed versions that are popular in Germany and America. I personally don’t favour these for assembling carcass furniture because of their excessive bulk.

In addition, I like the inner edge of the bar to contact the surface of the component being cramped and this is more difficult to achieve with deep jaws. Because it is impossible to tighten up all the cramps involved at the same time, in almost any situation that requires the internal corners of an assembly to be square it is likely that some adjustment will have to be carried out. This is done by moving the cramps towards the longer of the two diagonals. It is easier to do this progressively if one point of contact with the outside face of the assembly can be maintained. This is much more difficult to achieve with deep-jawed cramps.

However, with the inner edge of the bar in contact with the component it is quite likely that it will also come into contact with the glue, resulting in a rust mark on the surface. This can be prevented by covering the bar with masking tape. Better still, I use pieces of extruded plastic channel, which I cut from file binders. This U-shaped strip of plastic can be bought from any office supplies or stationery shop. The plastic strip can be slid along the bar to any desired position to prevent contact with glue, thus avoiding any rust on the cramp or stain on the wood.

Making your own cramps stands

It is also worth making cramp stands. The jaws of sash cramps have a small foot that is intended to prevent the cramp from falling over sideways when placed on a work surface. Sadly, the foot is often not wide enough and whole sets of cramps fall over at the most inopportune times. I have made my own cramp stands from MDF squares with a 1/4in groove (cramp bars are still made from imperial stock) routed into the face. It is easier to rout a groove into a strip of MDF 2in x 1/2in (50mm x 12mm) and cut it into squares after routing the groove.

While talking about sash cramps I should mention cramp heads, which are bought in sets for which you make your own bars from wood. While this might seem an inexpensive way of solving the problem you will find that they are bulky and cumbersome to use.

G-cramps

G-cramps are extremely convenient for clamping small components together and for generally holding down components while working on them. Drop-forged from steel, with a powerful screw, they are available in a variety of sizes from 1in (25mm) upwards. I have some monster G-cramps with a 12in (300mm) capacity, which I use for laminating, where the force needed to hold thick laminations in tight curves is difficult to achieve with a bag press.

Very often the appropriate size of clamp depends on the scale of work being held, which suggests that owning a selection of G-cramp sizes should be the long-term aim of most furniture-makers. Deep-throat G-cramps are also available but my preference is for the more recently popular F-clamps.

F-clamps have also been popular in Germany and America, and have been manufactured by leading German makers for quite some time. They are now readily available in this country, too. The main advantage of F-clamps is the speed and ease with which they can be adjusted to suit the capacity being clamped. Unfortunately, over a period of time, the bar serrations wear and the grip is liable to slip. It’s frustrating – to say the least – when you come to take the clamps off after the glue has set, only to find that the joint was not fully closed. This problem is now being addressed by some makers with a redesign of the bar and its serrations.

F-clamps are also available with deeper throat capacities than G-cramps, which make them more suitable where pressure needs to be applied well in from the edge of a component. Be prepared to pay accordingly for the deeper-throated sizes. Another practical advantage with F-clamps is the provision of plastic shoe covers, which very often obviate the need for protective clamping blocks. One word of warning: when buying F-clamps, avoid the economy versions sold from market stalls. They are flimsy and badly made!

Wooden-jawed cam clamps

For lightweight holding, Klemmsia wooden-jawed cam clamps are a good substitute for metal G-cramps and F-clamps. They are quick and easy to set and are ideal for holding down components, but are not really strong enough for gluing up where sustained force is required. Because these wooden Klemmsia clamps are very light in weight they are ideal when the combined weight of components and clamps would cause distortion to the assembly.

Quick-grip

In recent years an assortment of quick-grip and single-handed action clamps have become available. They come with accessories offering a versatile range of options. They can be useful for occasional use but, in my opinion, are not a suitable alternative to G-cramps and

F-clamps for sustained application of pressure when gluing up a construction.

Edging cramps

I use veneers for most of my carcass pieces. The edges of man-made substrates require lipping, sometimes before veneering and sometimes after veneering. For straight-edged situations the lipping can be glued on and pressure applied with sash clamps. If the lippings are curved, however, gluing up becomes more complicated. To avoid curved cramping blocks I use edging cramps.

I am not keen on the type of edging clamp that has a G-clamp with a secondary clamping screw set at 90 degrees. The hold of the G-cramping action tends to slip and the edge clamping direction, because of its fixed position, is not always centred on the edge of the component.

A few years ago I came across the definitive edging clamp from Wurth. This is a well-engineered clamp, consisting of a sturdy diecast frame and a pair of double-acting cams, faced with rubber. The cams open like jaws to hold the thickness of the component, while a screw-driven foot applies pressure to the edge. The foot is virtually self-centred on the edge, despite the alignment of the cam jaws. It’s ideal for applying pressure to a curved edge. With a little bit of imagination, you can use these clamps to apply pressure from one side to more situations than just edgings. Although fairly costly items, their versatility offsets the price.

Edge press clamps

For edge jointing solid wood to produce wide panels from narrower boards, most craftsmen use sash cramps. With clamps alternately placed at intervals applying pressure to the edges from above and below the boards, the work can be held flat at the same time. I have a set of six Plano press clamps for this purpose.

These clamps hold the boards flat and align the faces while applying pressure to the edges. The clamp consists of two extruded aluminium bars that press on both faces of the boards. When edge pressure is applied from the end-screw, the bars in turn apply pressure to the faces, ensuring surface alignment, producing perfect butt joints, without the need for splines or biscuits. These clamps are definitely only justifiable if you are doing a substantial amount of butt-jointing in solid wood. Axminster Power Tool Centre’s panel clamps – though not as sophisticated – perform the same function at a more modest cost.

Other clamps

The clamps i have described form the mainstay of my arsenal of clamping hardware. I also have six jet clamps, which are ideal in situations when pressure cannot be applied due to the screw being restricted by the position of other components. A typical example would be a partition in a box. Jet clamps apply pressure from the outside, rather than the end of the clamp.

For small, lightweight, additions I use spring-cramps. These operate like bulldog clips used for organizing paperwork. They are versatile and simple to use, with an amazing amount of strength in their springs.

Masking tape

I cannot end this section on hardware without paying tribute to masking tape. Not quite hardware, it is nonetheless a fantastic way of holding components together, whether small or large. I have successfully assembled coopered edge joints with wide masking tape and lipped the edge of 5/32in (4mm) thick MDF with a 1/8in (3mm) thick lipping using masking tape. What makes it work successfully is the elastic quality of the tape backing paper which, when stretched over a joint, contracts sufficiently to apply pressure.

This post first appeared on: http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=605

I hope you enjoyed our woodworking clamps vs cramps post, check out our new store for the best selection of woodworking tools, wood lathes and all the clamps vs cramps you can dream of.

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Tete a Tete Adirondack Chairs Woodworking Plans

Adirondack Chairs Woodworking Plans
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tete a tete adirondack chairs woodworking plans love seatWoodwork Plans for a Tete a Tete Adirondack Chair Loveseat

Tete a tete adirondack chairs woodworking plans are excellent projects for newbies or teens to try out in woodworking  as the strategies are usually straight cuts of wood made up of varying sizes and shape which will test your cutting, gauging and setting up abilities. The tete-a-tete adirondack chairs are created as outdoor furnishings for yard or veranda but they are likewise ideal for a summerhouse or log cabin, the design is a lot more reclining chair style compared to upright chair. Tete a tete is a french word translated to mean a private conversation, face to face or also as in intimacy from lovers and hence these are also termed love seats, for two close people to share a seat for conversing together or just spending quality time together.

This makes it a good woodworking job as you begin to get started woodworking as well as to flaunt your early woodworking skills. As you proceed with more woodworking jobs your self-confidence makes certain to expand and also you will certainly have the ability to handle advanced woodworking projects as well as more complex builds more easily.

One more great use of the double Adirondack chair woodworking plans is for children as it is easy to change the sizes of the chair blueprint plans to fit the age as well as sizes of your kids. Youngsters really enjoy to have the very same furniture as grownups so this would certainly be a wonderful garden enhancement that the youngsters will love.

Tete a Tete Adirondack Chairs Woodworking Plans History

The original Adirondack chair style dates back to 1903 and was initially made to be utilized outdoors and also because of this is a simple chair design made originally of timber but nowadays is often made from man made materials, like recyclable plastics.

As they are exterior furnishings the finishing will be much less complicated than an interior furniture could need so the tete a tete or 2 seat Adirondack chairs woodworking plans would most probably not require varnishing however more likely the chair would be weathered or stained. Weather-proof finishes stand the test of time to make certain lasting toughness.

Woodworking Strategies 2 Seat Adirondack Chairs Designs

Tete-a-Tete Adirondack chairs are traditionally created from flat wooden boards, with a straight chair back as well as seat and armrests. The development of numerous man made materials have allowed for this style of chair to be made from man made tough plastics as well as other polymers.

More modern-day designs of tete a tete adirondack chairs typically feature a rounded back as well as could also include a more contoured seat. This is more intricate to attain compared to the initial flat style layout however this should not put you off tackling making one. When you review the tete a tete plans you could decide exactly what type of Adirondack chair seat you would like to choose but practice building and woodworking is the only way where your confidence and woodworking skills will grow and how your woodworking capabilities will certainly be improved.

Check out our Tete a Tete Adirondack chairs woodworking plans and hundreds more woodworking plans.

 

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Double Adirondack Chairs Woodworking Plans for Beginners

Adirondack Chairs Woodworking Plans
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double adirondack chairs woodworking plans

Woodwork Plans for a Double Adirondack Chair

Double Adirondack chairs woodworking plans are excellent woodworking projects for newbies or teens looking to start a chair woodwork project; as the strategies are usually straight cuts of wood made up of varying sizes and shape. These will test your cutting, gauging and setting up abilities. The double Adirondack chairs are created as outdoor furnishings for yard or veranda but they are likewise ideal for a summerhouse or log cabin, the design is a lot more reclining chair style compared to upright chair.

This makes it a good woodworking job as you begin to get started woodworking as well as to flaunt your early woodworking skills. As you proceed with more woodworking jobs your self-confidence makes certain to expand and also you will certainly have the ability to handle advanced woodworking projects as well as more complex builds more easily.

One more great use of the double Adirondack chair woodworking plans is for children as it is easy to change the sizes of the chair blueprint plans to fit the age as well as sizes of your kids. Youngsters really enjoy to have the very same furniture as grownups so this would certainly be a wonderful garden enhancement that the youngsters will love.

The double Adirondack chairs woodworking plans are classed as a double seater or tete-a-tete version of the traditional Adirondack chairs. tete-a-tete is a french term meaning head to head as in closeness or intimacy; so this is similar in concept to a love seat or for two close people to share a seat for conversing together or just spending quality time together.

Double Adirondack Chairs Woodworking Plans History

The Adirondack chair was initially made to be utilized outdoors and also because of this is a simple chair design made of timber or more recently man made materials. The original Adirondack chair style go back to 1903.

As they are exterior furnishings the finishing will be much less complicated than an interior furniture could need so the 2 seat or double Adirondack chairs woodworking plans would certainly not require varnishing however more likely the chair would be stained or weathered. Weather-resistant finishes stand the test of time to make certain lasting toughness.

Woodworking Strategies 2 Seat Adirondack Chairs Designs

Tete-a-Tete Adirondack chairs are traditionally created from flat wooden boards, with a straight chair back as well as seat and armrests. The development of numerous man made materials have allowed for this style of chair to be made from polymers as well as other tough influence plastics.

More modern-day designs of double Adirondack chairs typically feature a rounded back as well as could also include a contoured seat. This is more intricate to attain compared to the initial flat style layout however should not put you off. When you review the plans you could decide exactly what type of Adirondack chair seat you will certainly choose however practice assembling is the only way where your confidence and skills will certainly be obtained in your woodworking and how your woodworking abilities will certainly grow.

Check out our double Adirondack chairs woodworking plans for beginners and hundreds more woodworking plans here.

 

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